Travel in Morocco

Introduction

Stroll through centuries-old medinas, trek the Atlas Mountains, and drink mint tea on the terrace of a riad overlooking the ocean. These are just a few of the possibilities when traveling Morocco, a country steeped in history and rich in culture. Partly colonized by both France and Spain, Morocco has also been largely shaped by Islam. As a result, the country exhibits a unique and intriguing combination of European and Middle Eastern culture.

Straddling the Atlantic, the Mediterranean, and the Sahara Desert, the landscape of Morocco is as varied as the culture. Beautiful beaches line the coast, but further inland you will find the massive Atlas Mountains and further still lies the vastness of the Sahara, the largest non-polar desert on Earth.

Morocco is easy to get to, compared to many other destinations in Africa, and food and accommodation expenses are reasonable. Flights from Europe are incredibly cheap and you can even take an inexpensive ferry from Spain. Once you’re there, you may not want to leave. The food is delicious, the people are incredible, and the attractions are seemingly endless.

Visa & Border Crossings

A visa is not required for travel to Morocco as long as the stay is 90 days or less. The most common way to enter Morocco is via air from Europe, but there are several other options.

• Spain – There are several ferry options for travel between Morocco and Spain. The most popular option is to take a ferry that leaves from Algeciras on the Spanish side. You can either travel to Tangier or Ceuta (Spanish Morocco). Generally, Ceuta is better if you are driving your own car, because Ceuta is a duty-free zone (gas is cheaper) and there is less traffic. If you are traveling by public transport, Tangier is better because you will have more options to get to other destinations in the country.
• France & Italy – There are also ferries that leave France and Italy for Tangier. These are generally more expensive and take longer (36 hours from France and 48 hours from Italy). In France, ferries leave from Sete and in Italy they leve from Genoa.
• Algeria – The land border between Algeria and Morocco is currently closed. This is due to an ongoing dispute between Morocco and Algeria over the independence of Western Sahara.
• Mauritania via Western Sahara – This overland border crossing is a bit complicated and may be considered dangerous (roads are not clearly marked and there are landmines). If you are doing it in a private vehicle, you should have a guide who is familiar with the road. By public transport you can take a bus for part of the way, but then you must switch to a bush taxi that will take you through Western Sahara.

Tourist Trail

• Casablanca – Casablanca (or Casa as it is affectionately known) is the largest city in Morocco and all of North Africa for that matter. It is a bustling cosmopolitan city in which European styles collide with Islamic traditions. The Hassan II Mosque, the largest in Morocco and third largest in the world, is here, along with a recently restored medina, and the largest port in the country. Casa also boasts a vibrant cafe culture and it is one of the few places in Morocco where you can dance the night away in a club.
• Marrakesh – Widely considered the most important former imperial city, Marrakesh is perhaps Morocco’s number one tourist destination. The market area (known as a souk) is the largest in the country and the main square, Djemaa el Fna, with its snake charmers, musicians, and acrobats, provides an iconic image of Morocco.
• Essaouira – Known as the “windy city of Africa,” Essaouira is popular with kitesurfers and windsurfers. But Essaouira also draws many visitors because of its medina, a UNESCO World Heritage Listed city. Lying on the Atlantic, this fortified city provides numerous opportunities to get lost in its labyrinth allies, amidst all manner of shops, traditional apothecaries, and food vendors.
• Fes – The second largest city in Morocco is also home to the largest car-free urban area in the world. The medina is one of the oldest in the country and many travelers enjoy it more than the medina of Marrakesh because there is less hassle. Known for its silver merchants and traditional clothes vendors, many people come here for the shopping alone.
• Agadir – This beachside town in southern Morocco is a popular destination for Europeans escaping the winter cold. The weather is pleasant here year round with average daily temperatures of 22 degrees Celsius (72 degrees Fahrenheit). The expansive beach is the main attraction here, but there is also a bustling souk and a number of excellent cafes and restaurants.
• Camel Trekking in the Sahara - Camel treks are a popular option as you go further inland. Marrakesh is the most common point of departure and tour operators and guides are easily arranged. You can take treks for 2-5 days, and the trips often include food and camping in the desert. On the longer trips, you will stop in Merzouga and Erfoud, where picturesque views of the Sahara have made this a popular destination for filmmakers. Word of warning: camels are not the most comfortable mode of transport!

Off the Beaten Path

• Chefchaouen – The Blue City, so called because of the many residences and buildings that are painted blue, is situated in the Rif Mountains, not far from Tangier. Far from the hustle and bustle of Morocco’s major cities, Chefchaouen offers an opportunity to relax in a beautiful mountain setting. You can also buy many handmade crafts here that are unavailable in the rest of the country, wool garments and blankets, for example. It is quickly becoming a major tourist destination, however, and may soon be less of a peaceful refuge.
• Trekking the Atlas Mountains – The snow-capped Atlas Mountains contain the largest peak in North Africa and they provide some serious hiking opportunities. Summer is the best time for going on a trek and there are many places to begin the journey. A popular option is to arrange for a guide in Marrakesh and then take a van to the trailhead. A guide is recommended, especially if you are unfamiliar with the terrain.

Transportation

For all the information you could ever hope to need about this topic, head to the transportation in Morocco page.

Weather

Morocco has a varying climate depending on where you are at in relation to the mountains, coast, and the desert. Generally, the best times to travel are in spring (March to May), when the country is temperate and very green, and in autumn (September to November) when the heat of the summer dissapates and winter has not yet set in. If you do travel in winter, there are a number of destinations that will still be comfortable, including Agadir and many of the cities and towns on the southern coast.

Money & Costs

The currency in Morocco is the Moroccan Dirham. The exchange rate is roughly 10 Moroccan Dirhams to $1 USD. There are ATM machines throughout the country and many take both visa and mastercard. Visa is more widely accepted, however. Credit cards are accepted at some businesses, but there is often a 5% surcharge for use.

It is common to tip in Morocco for any and every service (5-10% is common). Also, it must be noted that bargaining is a very important aspect of life in Morocco. When you are a souk, be prepared to haggle!

Morocco is a very reasonable country to travel in. Filling meals can be had for US$5 and less and you can find comfortable accomodation in riads for $15-20 a night. Public transportation by bus and train is also inexpensive. That said, Morocco has plenty of options for luxury hotels and five star restaurants. It all depends on your budget and your style of travel.

People

• Locals – Moroccan hospitality is deservedly renowned. People are quick to invite you into their homes and share what they have. In public, it is the men who are most visible. This is largely due to the predominant Islamic culture. Women are often partially covered when outside and generally don’t go to bars or nightclubs (those that do are typically viewed as prostitutes). This is changing somewhat, however, in the larger cities, notably Casablanca, where young people go out late into the night. Moroccans have a great sense of humour and it’s important to not take any situation too seriously. You will be approached, especially in tourist areas, by vendors trying to sell you just about everything. They may come across as aggressive, but understand that they mean no harm. Feel free to joke with them and have a conversation. Remember that if you do want to buy something, you should always bargain for it – bargaining is very important aspect of Moroccan culture!

Accommodation

Morocco has a variety of accommodation options. There are luxurious hotels, bed and breakfasts, hostels and traditional riads. For a true Moroccan experience, I recommend staying in a riad. A riad is a traditional house with a terrace on the roof and an inner courtyard. In many riads, a comfortable private room with a bathroom will cost you $15-20. There are usually family-run and will provide a chance to really get to know Moroccan culture. In addition, they are often located within the medina (the old part of the city) and you can easily walk to the souk and the different attractions.

• City

Communication

• Language – Moroccan Arabic is the most widely spoken language in the country, followed by French and Spanish. Berber is also commonly spoken, especially as you travel further inland. English is spoken by some in touristy areas, but don’t count on it.
• Phones – Almost everyone has a cell phone in Morocco. SIM cards are cheap and local calls are inexpensive as well. Meditel, IAM, and Maroc Telecom are three of the largest networks. They all compete with each other and have similar rates.
• Internet – Internet cafes are everywhere, especially in larger urban areas like Rabat, Tangier, and Casablanca. A common rate is around $0.60 for a half hour. There are also many cafes and restaurants that offer free wireless (wifi) to patrons.

Food & Drink

Moroccan food, undoubtedly benefitting from the country’s mediterranean climate, is decidedly delicious. Cous-cous, small balls of wheat that are often served with meat and vegetables, may be Morocco’s most famous export, but there is a lot more on offer. Tajine dishes, which involve braised meats and vegetables, are slow cooked to perfection. Try different combinations like chicken with olives and lemon, or lamb with almonds and dates. Most meals are served with a delicious flat bread that you can use to soak up the rich broth that meat and vegetables are cooked in. Brochettes of meat are also a common dish and in coastal areas you will be able to get fresh fish grilled right in front of you.

Mint tea is the national drink and it is easy to see why: fresh mint leaves and a heap of sugar is a great combination! Alcohol is not widely consumed in Morocco, but it can be found in bars and restaurants that serve it discreetly. Also, many hotels will serve alcohol. Do not drink openly in public!

Health

The diseases endemic to sub-Saharan Africa, like Malaria and Yellow Fever, are not a threat in Morocco. You may run into a case of traveler’s diarrhea depending on your eating habits. Tap water is safe to drink in Morocco, but you should purify and treat your water if you are in rural areas where well water is used. There is a lot of delicious street food to eat in Morocco, but try to pick a spot that looks clean and has lots of people (a crowd usually means the food is both delicious and hygienic).

Safety

Violent crime is not a problem in Morocco, but you should be aware of petty theft in larger urban areas. Take caution in crowded areas, always keeping a close on your belongings, and covering up valuables. Many people will offer to sell you marijuana and hashish in Morocco, but it is unwise to take them up on the offer. Undercover policemen have been known to pull this stunt and you do not want to end up in a Moroccan jail.

• Solo Women – If you are a solo female traveler, you may have to deal with a fair amount of unwanted male attention. Men will sometimes say “how many camels?” in an effort to determine how much it would cost to marry you. Generally, a firm and confident response will turn them away. If a man is persistent in his harassment tell him that you will go to the police. If you avoid eye contact and dress conservatively, you will save yourself a lot of trouble. Also, keep in mind that visiting a bar or nightclub alone may cast you in an unfavourable light. Many of the women that frequent bars are prostitutes.

Read & Watch

• Casablanca - While the Casablanca you visit may not be the same Casablanca of this storied film, it is worth watching to get a sense for the mystique that still surrounds this city.
• Allah’s Garden - This excellent work of non-fiction  by Thomas Hollowell discusses the tragic and ongoing conflict over Western Sahara.
• Guidebooks – There are guidebooks on Morocco from many notable companies including Lonely Planet, Frommer’s, Fodor’s and the Rough Guide.