Introduction
There is a good chance that you have heard of Cote d’Ivoire because of the crisis that gripped the country throughout the 2000′s. Or perhaps you have heard of Cote d’Ivoire because of the 2010 post-election fallout that has led to political and economic gridlock. What you may not know is that Cote d’Ivoire was once one of the richest nations in Africa. Built up with profits from coffee and cocoa, Abidjan was known as the ‘Paris of West Africa.’
While Cote d’Ivoire’s economic success has faltered and the political situation has become increasingly tense, Ivorians remain some of the most welcoming people in West Africa. Ivorian music is widely heard throughout the Francophone world and Abidjan remains a great place to party. There are still immaculate beaches on the coast and further inland, you will find lush rainforest, mountains and waterfalls.
Cote d’Ivoire’s current political situation is cause for concern, and it should be monitored closely if you are planning on traveling there. Check with the State Department or the Foreign Office of your respective country. Create a Google news alert and track news stories on a daily basis. Visit online forums and try to get in contact with Ivorians and ex-pats to better understand the situation on the ground.
Visa & Border Crossings
Cote D’Ivoire grants a one-month tourist visa that costs 25,000 CFA (approximately 40 euros or $50 USD). Visas need to be obtained from an Ivorian embassy before traveling.
Here are the major border crossings:
Ghana
- Elubo – This is the most secure border crossing into Cote D’Ivoire. Ghana’s national bus service (STC) regularly journeys between Accra and Abidjan and they use this crossing.
- Zegoua – This is the main border crossing between Cote D’Ivoire and Mali. Keep in mind that this border crossing is in the north of the country and it is controlled by the Forces Nouvelles, not the Ivorian government. I have traversed this border without problems, but I would recommend taking a reputable bus company (like Sama Transport) to avoid hassle.
Liberia
- Tabou – This is the main crossing into Cote D’Ivoire from Liberia, but it is one of the most difficult to do. The security situation in Western Cote D’Ivoire has consistently been poor and you will likely face police harassment at this crossing and on your way to and from it. The roads on either side are also in very poor condition. I would advice you to enter from a different country or by air.
Tourist Trail
As is the case with many countries in West Africa, there is not a traditional tourist trail in Cote D’Ivoire simply because there are not that many travelers. The travelers that do come, however, generally gravitate to a handful of places.
- Abidjan - Abidjan is the economic capital of Cote d’Ivoire as well as its largest city. The skyline of Plateau, the central business district, is dominated by high-rises and modern architecture. This part of the city is largely Westernized. Expect to find Western style restaurants and clubs along with Western prices. For a more vibrant and cheaper experience of Abidjan, head to Yopougon, a working class neighbourhood filled with great street food and open air bars. The lagoon surrounding Abidjan is polluted and not quite the same as when Abidjan was dubbed the ‘Paris of West Africa,’ but a water taxi is cheap and allows you to see the city and visit some different neighbourhoods.
- Yamoussoukro - Yamoussoukro is the administrative capital of Cote d’Ivoire and it is the de facto division between the North (controlled by the Forces Nouvelles) and the South (controlled by the government). It is a bizarre city that Félix Houphouët-Boigny, the first President of Cote d’Ivoire, poured money into when cocoa profits were at their highest. The avenues are wide and there is a replica of St. Peter’s Basilica that is larger than the original – both a result of Félix Houphouët-Boigny dumping money into the town (he was from there). It is a fascinating place to visit if you are interested in Cote d’Ivoire’s history or if you want to see what happens when a president has too much pride for his hometown.
- San Pedro – San Pedro is the second largest port city in Cote d’Ivoire. There are palm lined beaches with rolling surf and there are plenty of opportunities for dining and nightlife. Close to San Pedro is the Tai National Park, considered one of the only sanctuaries of Dwarf Hippo still left in the world. As it is a popular destination, prices for accommodation and dining in San Pedro are high.
Off the Beaten Path
- Grand Lahou - Grand Lahou is a few hours west of Abidjan on the coast. There are several nearby villages, many of which are surrounded by a lagoon on one side, and the ocean on the other. You can easily visit this area on a day trip from Abidjan. The fishing villages are laid-back and welcoming and the scenery is beautiful. Take a Gbaka from Adjame station in Abidjan to Grand Lahou.
- Man - Man is a rebel controlled town in the western part of the country. Before traveling there, be sure to monitor the security situation in the country closely. It is worth visiting for its natural beauty. Man lies between two mountains, Mount Toura and Mount Tonkoui, and it is also home to a popular waterfall, la cascade, along with lush forests. You can get a bus from Abidjan to Man from Adjame station.
Transportation
For all the information you could ever hope to need about this topic, head to the transportation in Cote d’Ivoire page.
Weather
There are three seasons in Cote d’Ivoire: warm and dry (November to March), hot and dry (March to May), cool and rainy (June to October). The country is tropical along the coast with heavy humidity. As you move inland, the air becomes drier and the forest more temperate. As you get close to the border of Mali, you will find the semi-arid landscape of the Sahel, a pre-desert environment that is hot and dry. My favourite time to travel in Cote d’Ivoire is the rainy season. It is still humid, but temperatures are cooler and frequent cloud cover provides relief from the sun. Also, it does not rain all day, every day. There is typically a shower in the afternoon and maybe another in the evening or in the morning. Every now and then it will rain for several days straight, but this is not typical.
Money & Costs
Compared to other countries in West Africa, Cote d’Ivoire is one of the most expensive. Cote d’Ivoire uses the CFA currency which is pegged to the Euro at a rate of 500CFA to 1 Euro. If you are looking for hotel accommodation, expect to pay significantly. 20,000 CFA for basic accommodation is common. You can eat cheaply if you buy street food and shop at the market, but if you are spending a lot of time in restaurants, you will be paying close to Western prices. Transportation is cheap depending on the option you choose.
ATMs are readily available in urban areas. I would recommend traveling with a visa card. In my experience the only bank that will take MasterCard is Societe Ivoriene Banque. If you are traveling to rural areas, bring plenty of cash with you. In Abidjan, there are many places that take credit cards.
People
- Locals – Ivorians are incredibly welcoming and generous. They like to have a good time and starting a dance party is an unbelievably easy task. On the weekends you will find the maquis (pubs) loaded with people socializing, listening to the latest coupé-dé-calé songs, and dancing late into the night. I’ve found that Ivorians are less conservative (socially) than people from other countries nearby. This is perhaps because the religious influence is not as strong as it is in other nearby countries.
Accommodation
Hotels are expensive, generally charging 20,000 CFA for basic accommodation. Nicer hotels quickly move up in price to 40,000 to 50,000 CFA. There are fewer small guesthouses in Cote d’Ivoire than there are in other nearby countries, and it is quite hard to find cheap and decent accommodation. That said, hotels in Cote d’Ivoire will almost always have hot water and your own bathroom inside the room.
While I was in Cote d’Ivoire I couchsurfed for the entire duration of my stay. If you are unfamiliar with <a href=”http://couchsurfing.org”>Couchsurfing</a>, it is a website that allows you to find locals willing to provide you accommodation at their homes free of charge. Besides the obvious benefit that you don’t have to pay for accommodation, it also allows you to forge new friendships and to get an inside look at Ivorian culture. Some of my best friends in Cote d’Ivoire I met through Couchsurfing and my experience would not have been the same without them.
Communication
- Language – French is the official language of Cote d’Ivoire, and it is widely spoken in urban areas and even in many villages and rural areas. Dioula, a Manding language similar to Bambara, is the most widely spoken local language and you will hear it frequently, especially in the north of the country.
- Phones – There are several cell phone networks in Cote d’Ivoire: Orange, Koz and MTN. Cell phones are everywhere and even in villages, you will find that most people have them. Sim cards are just a dollar or two. Local calls are cheap and it’s worth it to travel with an unlocked phone or buy a cheap one at the market once you arrive.
- Internet - Internet cafes are easy to find and generally cost about $0.50 USD per half hour. In urban areas, the younger generations of Ivorians are very computer literate and you will see them spending a lot of time in Internet cafes.
Food & Drink
Food and drink in Cote d’Ivoire is similar to many other Francophone West African countries. The French left their mark on Ivorian cuisine, but there is also a strong legacy of traditional cooking that has been maintained. Street food is cheap and delicious, and it offers a wide variety of options. Poulet Braisée (barbequed chicken) with chili and onions, aloco (fried plantains) and Attiéké (Ivorian cous-cous made from ground cassava) are all delicious options.
Fufu, made from pounded cooked plaintains, and Futu (made from plaintain and cassava) are Cote d’Ivoire’s version of the African doughy-starchy-staple. Both are served with different sauces and are very filling. Street food and food from the markets is very inexpensive. Expect to pay $2 for a full meal from a vendor on the street.
Health
Malaria is widespread in Cote d’Ivoire, and you should purchase anti-malarial prophylactics before traveling. P. Falciparum, the most lethal strain of malaria, is present in Cote d’Ivoire. I have come down with Malaria twice before (the prophylactics are not 100% foolproof, but they probably made the symptoms less severe) and both times I treated it with Coartem, a medication that can be used for stand-by emergency malaria treatment. Consult a travel health clinic before going to get necessary immunizations and recommendations for anti-malarials. A Yellow Fever vaccine is required to get into the country and I would also recommend a Typhoid vaccine. Coartem, and anti-malarials like malarone and doxycycline can be purchased cheaply at any local pharmacy in Cote d’Ivoire. 30 Doxycycline tabs will run you about 2,000 CFA ($4 USD) and a box of Coartem should cost around 4,000 CFA ($8 USD).
You can take all the precautions you want, but you most likely still come down with some form of traveler’s diarrhea. I’m not telling you this to give you license to eat and drink freely – make sure food is fully cooked, peel or wash fruits and vegetables, and do not drink the tap water. I’m just telling you that despite careful eating, you will still have a few, maybe many, bad experiences sitting on a toilet or squatting over a hole in the ground. To treat traveler’s diarrhea, take rehydration salts (can be purchased for less than a dollar at any pharmacy in Cote d’Ivoire) with water. Imodium and Pepto-Bismol only treat symptoms and in the case of Imodium, they will do more harm than good (it slows down your gut, keeping the bacteria in longer). If diarrhea lasts longer than a few days, take ciprofloxacin, the atomic bomb of antiobiotics, which you can purchase at any pharmacy. If there is blood in the diarrhea or your exhibiting other symptoms like fever or sulfur burps (sulfur burps = giardia, have fun!), get to a clinic as soon as possible.
Safety
I consider Cote d’Ivoire to be a safe place to travel, but it must be said that there are security issues that other countries in West Africa don’t have. First of all, there are higher instances of petty crime as well as violent crime, especially in urban areas. Carjackings, sometimes violent, have been known to occur in Abidjan. Take care of your personal belongings, try to avoid large crowds, and avoid traveling far at night.
It also must be said that there are some parts of the country that are more unstable than others. Western Cote d’Ivoire, particularly as you get close to the border of Liberia, is an area that lacks security. Expect to find aggressive police officers looking for a bribe. Northern Cote d’Ivoire is controlled by the Forces Nouvelles, and while I have traveled here with no problem, I am not surprised when I hear occasional stories of harassment by rebel troops.
The current political situation is also cause for concern. The current president, Gbagbo has been holding on to power, despite losing the most recent election. His opponent, the winner recognized by the international community, is holed up in a hotel in Abidjan. Gbagbo has maintained that he will not let go of power. This is becoming more evident as he maintains control of the military. Before traveling, monitor the news closely and check travel advisories from European Foreign offices and the American state department.
All of this said, I never felt unsafe while I was in Cote d’Ivoire and I met some of my best friends while there. Take caution, monitor the news, and use your best judgment, but please don’t write off the country as unsafe because of the country’s recent reputation.
Music & Dance
The two most well known music genres to come out of Cote D’Ivoire are Zouglou and Coupé-dé-calé. Zouglou is based on Zouk music and it is generally more laid back than the more frenetic coupé-dé-calé. Magic System is one of the most well known Zouglou acts, and their popularity has expanded throughout the Francophone world. Coupé-dé-calé music is more upbeat and intense and you will hear it at maquis and clubs. Coupé-dé-calé dancing is incredibly fast and technical. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself wanting to learn once you witness it!
Football
Also worth noting, Ivorians are serious about their football. While the Ivorian national team has consistently disappointed, the talent level in the country is astonishing. Many of Cote d’Ivoire’s best players ply their trade in the Premier League in England and La Liga in Spain. Didier Drogba, a star from Cote d’Ivoire, may be the most well known football player in the world.
Volunteering & Good Causes
There are many international volunteer organizations that are based in Cote d’Ivoire. The UN has been running operations in the country for over a decade. Habitat for Humanity and the Ivorian Red Cross are consistently in need of volunteers, especially in light of the recent political crisis. There is also a demand for English teachers. It would help to know some amount of French if you were interested in teaching English. You can also search for non-profit work and volunteer oppourtunities in Cote d’Ivoire with the website Idealist.org.
Read & Watch
- Guidebooks – Lonely Planet features Cote d’Ivoire in their West Africa and Africa guidebooks, and the country is also featured in the Rough Guide to West Africa. Keep in mind, however, that guidebooks are typically updated yearly and right now the situation in Cote d’Ivoire is changing rapidly. Use the guidebooks as a reference, but supplement them with current information found online.
- Coupé-dé-calé – Go to YouTube and search for ‘coupé-dé-calé music’ and get blown away by Ivorian music and dance. Use the videos to start practicing your moves. Ivorians love to go out and dance!
